![]() ![]() I haven't experimented too much on different ways to assemble the pens, I've been too focused on getting a good mirror finish on the copper and working out the kinks in the patina process. A little too much pressure on the cutting tool and the live center depresses in the tailstock enough that the whole blank and dog leaps up out of true enough to jam itself. I'm still getting used to turning between centers, it doesn't offer the same level of comfort as firmly chucking one end of the blank, also the Taig live center doesn't lend itself well to turning between centers. The taper attachment on the Taig is very finicky and not a good option if offsetting the tailstock is easier. That makes things a little easier.Ĭlick to expand.The Taig is a surprisingly good little lathe, although I plan on using my pen earnings to help upgrade to a Sherline. ![]() ![]() Do you press-fit your components directly into the metal pen bodies, or treat them like any other blank and glue (epoxy? JB Weld?) in brass tubes to receive the hardware?Īhhh. Otherwise I suppose just offsetting the tailstock is probably also an option (something I'm always reluctant to do on the SB due to the trouble of getting it realigned afterwards).Īnother question: I made a few aluminum & steel pens a couple years back, but was never entirely satisfied by the way they went together - especially where the transmission went into the upper tube (it was either too loose when twisting the transmission, or too tight to change refills). I wonder if Autodesk has gotten around to ripping lathe toolpaths out of the free version of Fusion yet. but somehow using it never quite occurred to me.Ī quick search doesn't turn up any taper attachments on the market, but the prior owner did an (only slightly hacky) CNC conversion on it, which could handle the same job if I can get the software end of things straightened out. Y'know, I've got a Taig micro collecting dust on the workbench (I use a South Bend Light 10 for most of my metal work). ![]()
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